Same-day service On-site repair Call 072 686 0472
On-site repairs for fridges that won't cool, freezers that ice up, leaks, noisy compressors and dead control boards. Samsung, LG, Defy, Bosch, Smeg, Miele and more.
Quick answer: The most common causes are a blocked or failed defrost system, a faulty evaporator or condenser fan, dirty condenser coils, a failed start relay or thermostat, or a gas (refrigerant) leak. If the freezer still works but the fridge is warm, the defrost system or evaporator fan is the usual culprit.
Before you call, check that the fridge is getting power, the temperature dial hasn't been turned down, the door closes and seals properly, and there's a gap for air behind the unit. If those are fine, the fault is almost always inside the cooling or defrost system and needs a technician.
In Gauteng, power surges after outages and summer storms are a common cause of fridge failure. They can damage control boards and inverter compressors, which are standard in most modern Samsung and LG fridges. If your fridge died after the power came back on, we can test it and give you a written surge report for your insurer.
This table shows the most likely Fridge faults, so you know what to expect before we arrive:
| Symptom | Most likely causes | What to check first |
|---|---|---|
| Fridge warm, freezer cold | Defrost heater, defrost sensor or timer; evaporator fan; blocked air damper | Listen for the fan inside the freezer when the door is closed |
| Fridge and freezer both warm | Compressor or start relay; condenser fan; refrigerant leak; control board | Is the compressor at the back running or clicking on and off? |
| Freezer icing up | Defrost fault; worn door seal; door left ajar | Check the seal by closing the door on a sheet of paper |
| Water leaking inside or under the fridge | Blocked defrost drain; cracked drain pan; water filter or ice maker line | Look for ice or water at the back wall inside |
| Loud buzzing, clicking or rattling | Fan motor hitting ice; failing compressor; start relay | Note when the noise happens and whether cooling has dropped |
| Fridge runs non-stop | Dirty condenser coils; faulty thermostat or sensor; gas leak; poor door seal | Clean dust off the coils and give it 24 hours |
| Dead after a power outage | Blown control board or power supply; surge-damaged inverter | Check the plug and breaker first, then call us for a surge report |
Quick answer: Most fridges last about 10 to 15 years. Premium built-in brands like Miele, Smeg and Siemens often last longer if they're maintained.
To help your fridge last: clean the condenser coils once or twice a year, keep a gap for air around it, don't overfill it, check the door seal, and use a surge protector. Surge protection matters especially in areas with frequent outages.
Quick answer: Every job starts with a flat R350 call-out fee. That includes getting to you, finding the fridge fault on site and a written quote. After that, the fridge repair price depends on the part and labour, and nothing happens until you approve it.
Common repairs like a start relay, thermostat, defrost heater or fan motor usually cost much less than gas or compressor work. Leak repairs with a regas, compressor replacement and inverter board repairs are the most expensive. For typical price ranges, see our appliance repair cost guide.
A common rule is to repair if the fridge is under about 8 to 10 years old and the repair costs less than half the price of a comparable new fridge. For premium built-in fridges, repair is almost always worth it. The technician will tell you honestly if a repair isn't worth doing.
We take Fridge bookings Monday to Saturday, 07:30 to 17:30. Most fridge call-outs are seen the same day, depending on how busy our technicians are. Living in an estate? Send the gate procedure with your fridge booking and we'll sort out access.
Fridge repairs in all of these areas carry the same R350 call-out. Linked areas have their own local page.
Every fridge repair starts with a flat R350 call-out fee. It includes the trip to you, testing the fridge on site and a written quote. The final cost depends on the fault and parts, and you approve the quote before any work begins.
This usually points to a defrost fault or a failed evaporator fan. Ice builds up on the freezer coils and blocks cold air from flowing into the fridge section. A technician can test the defrost heater, sensor and fan to confirm.
Yes. All fridge repairs are done on site at your home or business. We don't need to take the fridge away, except in rare cases for major workshop repairs.
Yes, but a fridge only loses gas if it has a leak. We find and repair the leak first, then regas, so the fix lasts.
Yes. We test the fridge, confirm whether the damage was caused by a surge, and give you a written report for your insurance claim.
We cover Sandton, Bryanston, Fourways, Midrand, Kyalami, Waterfall, Pretoria East, Centurion, Randburg, Northcliff, Bedfordview, Edenvale and the surrounding suburbs, for the same R350 call-out fee.
Send your suburb, the fridge brand and what it's doing, and we'll offer the earliest slot.
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This glass-door bar fridge in a Lonehill home entertainment area had stopped getting cold. With our gauges connected, the readings pointed to a problem inside the sealed system rather than a simple fault like a fan or thermostat. We flushed the system to clear out contamination and moisture, fitted a new filter drier, then vacuumed and regassed it to the correct charge. Afterwards we put a thermometer probe inside and watched the temperature come down to show the customer it was cooling properly again. Tip: bar fridges built in under a counter need space to breathe. Keep the vents at the front or bottom clear, because a bar fridge that can't get rid of its heat works much harder and wears out sooner.
This caravan fridge had a strange fault. The freezer was still cold, but the fridge section wasn't getting cold at all. Most people would guess a thermostat or a fan, but our diagnosis showed the real cause was a gas leak. When a fridge slowly loses gas, the little refrigerant left boils off in the first part of the cooling circuit, which is usually the freezer, and runs out before it reaches the fridge section. So the freezer keeps working for a while and the fridge goes warm. We found and repaired the leak, then regassed the system with R134a, connected to our gauges to get the charge right. Both the freezer and the fridge section were cooling properly again. Tip: if your freezer is cold but the fridge is warm, don't wait. A slow leak only gets worse, and once the freezer starts warming up too, the compressor has been working overtime for weeks.
This fridge was running but not cooling properly. Gauge readings showed a restriction in the sealed system rather than a leak. The filter drier, a small copper canister that traps moisture and dirt in the gas, was blocked, so the refrigerant couldn't flow. We fitted a new filter drier, vacuumed the system to remove moisture, and regassed it to the correct charge, then checked the fridge was cooling down properly again. Tip: a fridge where the compressor runs non-stop but the cabinet stays warm can have a blockage, not just low gas. Topping up gas won't fix that, which is why we test first.
This LG fridge-freezer was warming up and the display showed a high reading with the red warning triangle lit. Our diagnosis found a defrost fault. In a frost-free fridge, a defrost system melts the frost off the cooling coil every few hours. When it fails, ice slowly builds up until it blocks the airflow, so the fridge warms up even though the compressor is still running. We fixed the defrost fault, cleared the ice and checked the fridge was holding temperature again. Tip: if your frost-free fridge is getting warm and you see frost or ice on the back panel inside the freezer, it's usually a defrost problem, not a gas problem.
This 12V DC caravan fridge ran but wouldn't get cold. We tested it on a 12V supply to rule out the battery and wiring, then pressure-tested the sealed system and found a gas leak. We repaired the leak, fitted a new filter drier, vacuumed the system and regassed it, then checked it was cooling properly on 12V again. Caravan and camping fridges use the same kind of sealed gas system as a household fridge, just smaller, so they can be repaired the same way. Tip: caravan fridges take a lot of vibration on the road, which can crack pipe joints over time. If yours cools slower than it used to, get it checked before your next trip.
The customer's Samsung fridge had stopped cooling. Our diagnosis showed the compressor, the pump that circulates the refrigerant gas, had failed. We fitted a new compressor, brazed the pipe connections, vacuumed the system and regassed it to the correct charge, then checked that the fridge and freezer were cooling down again. Tip: a failed compressor doesn't automatically mean a new fridge. On a fridge that's otherwise in good condition, replacing the compressor is often far cheaper than buying a new one, and we'll tell you honestly if it isn't worth it.
The bar fridge kept tripping the power. Testing showed the compressor had failed. It had been overheating for a long time because the condenser was thick with grease and dirt, so it couldn't get rid of heat and the compressor worked itself to death. We replaced the compressor, then degreased and cleaned the condenser so air can flow through it freely again. Without that second step, a new compressor would have gone the same way. In kitchens and bars, a condenser clean every few months is cheap insurance.
Tell us what's broken and where you are. We'll call you back to confirm a time, usually the same day.
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