On-site repairs for ovens that won't heat, uneven cooking, dead stove plates, faulty switches, and gas hobs that click but won't light. Built-in and freestanding.
Quick answer: The most common causes are a failed heating element (bake, grill or fan element), a faulty thermostat, a failed selector switch or timer, or a failed fan motor in fan ovens. If only the grill or only the fan setting has stopped working, that one element is usually the fault.
Before you call, check that the oven isn't locked on a timer or clock setting. Many built-in ovens won't heat until the clock is set, especially after a power outage. Also check the breaker or isolator switch.
Power surges after outages can damage electronic timers, clocks and control boards on modern built-in ovens. We can test the oven and give you a written surge report for your insurer.
Use this table to understand the likely fault before the technician arrives:
| Symptom | Most likely causes | What to check first |
|---|---|---|
| Oven not heating at all | Element; thermostat; selector switch; timer or clock not set; thermal cut-out | Set the clock and check the breaker |
| Cooks unevenly or too slowly | Fan element or fan motor; thermostat out of calibration; door seal | Check whether the fan is turning |
| Grill not working, oven fine | Grill element; selector switch | Look for a visible break or blister on the grill element |
| Stove plate not heating | Plate element; plate switch (simmerstat); wiring | Test whether other plates work |
| Plate stuck on high | Faulty plate switch (simmerstat) | Turn off at the isolator and don't use it until repaired |
| Gas hob clicks but won't light | Wet or dirty burner; faulty igniter or spark module | Dry the burner caps and make sure they're seated properly |
| Gas flame goes out when you let go | Faulty thermocouple (flame safety device) | Stop using that burner and book a repair |
| Trips the power when switched on | Shorted element or damaged wiring | Don't reset repeatedly. Book a technician. |
Quick answer: If you smell gas, turn off the gas at the cylinder or supply valve, open windows, don't switch on lights or appliances, and leave the area. Don't use the hob until it has been checked.
A burner that won't stay lit when you let go of the knob has a faulty flame safety device (thermocouple). This is a safety part and should be replaced, not bypassed.
Quick answer: Every job starts with a flat R350 call-out fee. This covers travel, full on-site diagnosis and a written quote. The repair cost then depends on the part and labour needed, and you approve the quote before any work begins.
Plate switches, grill elements and oven elements are the most common repairs and are usually affordable. Fan motors and igniters cost a bit more. Electronic control boards on premium built-in ovens are the most expensive. For typical price ranges, see our appliance repair cost guide.
Ovens and stoves are usually worth repairing, because most faults are with elements and switches that are simple to replace. Built-in ovens from brands like Bosch, Siemens, Smeg and Miele are almost always worth repairing rather than replacing, especially because replacement units must fit the existing cabinet.
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 07:30 to 17:30. Most call-outs are handled the same day, subject to technician availability. For estates, send your access details when you book and we'll arrange gate entry.
We cover these areas for the same R350 call-out fee. Linked areas have their own local page.
We repair all major brands of built-in and freestanding ovens, stoves and hobs:
Defy · Bosch · Smeg · Siemens · AEG · Miele · Whirlpool · Samsung · LG
Every oven and stove repair starts with a flat R350 call-out fee. This covers travel, on-site diagnosis and a written quote. The final cost depends on the part needed, and you approve the quote before any work begins.
Many built-in ovens need the clock to be set before they'll heat after a power cut. Set the time, and if it still doesn't work, the timer or control board may have been damaged by a surge.
Usually the fan element or fan motor has failed, so hot air isn't circulating. A faulty thermostat or worn door seal can also cause it.
The igniter keeps sparking if it's wet, if a burner cap is out of place, or if the spark switch or module is faulty. Dry the burner parts and reseat the caps. If it keeps clicking, the switch or module needs replacing.
Yes. We repair built-in and freestanding ovens, including Bosch, Siemens, Smeg, Miele, AEG and Defy.
We cover Sandton, Bryanston, Fourways, Midrand, Kyalami, Waterfall, Pretoria East, Centurion, Randburg, Northcliff, Bedfordview, Edenvale and the surrounding suburbs, for the same R350 call-out fee.
Tell us your suburb, the brand and the fault, and we'll give you the earliest available slot.
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